Replacing a garage door spring typically costs between 200 and 620 dollars, with many homeowners landing around 250 to 350 dollars for a single torsion spring including parts and labor. That is the short answer, and yes, it is in line with current national guides. ConsumerAffairs cites 160 to 350 dollars as a common range, and several home improvement sources cluster right around 250 dollars on average, give or take your city and your door’s weight. I think that sounds about right, although heavier insulated doors or paired springs can push things higher.
Cost Breakdown, The Simple View
Parts, the spring itself. Expect 30 to 180 dollars for a single replacement spring, depending on spring type and quality. Torsion springs usually sit at the higher end. Extension springs at the lower end. Many national guides and service catalogs align with that range today.
Labor, the skilled part. Professional installation for torsion springs usually falls between 150 and 395 dollars, with a lot of homeowners ending near 200 to 350 dollars all in for a standard single spring swap. Labor rates vary by city and company, but the national averages of 65 to 85 dollars per hour keep showing up in reputable sources.
Typical total. Put parts and labor together, and the 250 to 350 dollars figure for a single torsion spring is a realistic midline. In denser metros, or where the door is heavy, prices can trend higher. On the other hand, a light single car door with a basic extension spring may land below that average.
A quick local reality check
If you are in the GTA, published Fix One guides and pages show similar ranges, sometimes quoted in CAD. For example, a recent cost guide lists torsion spring replacement as 250 to 450 CAD for a single spring and 350 to 600 CAD for a pair, which roughly overlaps with the national USD bands once you adjust for currency and local market. Ottawa ranges look similar, with springs typically 200 to 350 CAD. Prices also drift with seasonality, winter freeze thaw cycles, and door size. Perhaps not surprising.
Factors Influencing Cost
Spring type. There are two main systems, torsion and extension. Torsion springs mount above the door on a shaft, deliver smoother operation, and tend to be more durable, which is partly why they cost more up front. Extension springs stretch along the tracks, cost less, and are more common on lighter doors. If a technician recommends converting from extension to torsion, understand that is a more involved job with extra hardware, so costs climb. I think the performance difference is noticeable, especially on heavier, insulated sectional doors.
Door weight and height. Heavy doors, insulated steel or solid wood, require stronger springs with a higher wire size or longer coil length. Taller eight foot doors also take longer springs than standard seven foot doors. The material cost bump may seem small, but the total can rise due to balancing and setup time.
Location and labor rates. Urban labor rates usually sit higher. Emergency calls or evening windows add premiums. In the GTA and Southern Ontario, same day service for a stuck door can be worth it, but it does show up on the invoice. Local pages confirm 24,7 response is available if you need it.
Number of springs. Many double wide doors use two torsion springs for balance. If one breaks, replacing the pair is common to keep lift forces even and avoid a follow up failure. This doubles the part cost, although some pros reduce labor when doing both in the same visit.
Related parts and small add ons. Cables, center bearings, end bearings, and drums are often inspected during a spring swap. If a frayed cable or seized bearing shows up, expect 80 to 185 dollars more for cables, and smaller amounts for hardware. It is one of those practical moments, you already have the door apart, so I would rather fix it properly once.
Why Professional Installation Is Crucial
There are repairs you can DIY with patience and a Saturday. Torsion spring work is not one of them. The system stores significant energy, and mistakes can be serious. Pros arrive with winding bars, calibrated scales, and the habit of locking down the shaft before touching set screws. Even if you are handy, I think it is worth paying for the technique and the warranty. Local providers like Fix One call out the safety angle on their service pages and offer same day teams to keep downtime short.
A technician also sizes the spring correctly. Many doors out there run mismatched springs, which is why you hear that jerky start or see the door drift a few inches open by itself. Correct wire gauge, inside diameter, and length, all chosen to the door’s exact weight and lift type, matter for longevity. Balanced doors preserve openers and reduce stress on tracks and rollers. This is the quiet payoff you feel every day.
Light Personal Take, When Prices Surprise
I have been on more than one call where the customer expected a 99 dollar fix and the quote came back near 500 dollars. Usually the door is heavier than it looks, insulated panels add weight, or the second spring is fatigued. There is also the emergency factor. If your car is trapped and you need the door operational now, after hours, the premium is understandable. If you are not in a rush, scheduling a next day window often saves a decent chunk. This is one of those mildly contradictory moments, I value fast service, but I also think patience pays.
Competitor Benchmarks, To Keep Us Honest
Pricing and guidance are not invented here. ConsumerAffairs lists 160 to 350 dollars as a typical range. Modernize cites 150 to 350 dollars per spring as a common average. The Spruce notes about 250 dollars average, with add ons for cables and tune ups. These are not hard caps, just anchors that match real invoices for standard residential doors.
Detailed Cost Breakdown, what shows up on a real invoice
Let me slow down and separate the line items you are likely to see. Not every job looks identical. Real life is messy. Still, most invoices rhyme.
1. Primary parts, the spring or springs.
A single torsion spring for a standard seven foot steel door usually falls into a mid range part price. Extension springs cost less. High cycle torsion springs, say 20,000 to 30,000 cycle ratings, cost more up front, but the cost per open close cycle often looks better over a few years. If your door is eight feet tall, the spring length changes, which nudges the price.
2. Secondary parts, only if needed.
Lift cables, end bearings, center bearing, and drums are inspected. If your cable shows fraying near a crimp, replacing it while the assembly is open is common sense. Same idea with a noisy center bearing. The add on is usually modest compared to a repeat service call later.
3. Labor and service time.
Most spring swaps take under two hours, sometimes under one on a straightforward single spring standard height job. Heavier doors, stuck set screws, minor track tweaks, these add a bit of time. Emergency or after hours windows carry a premium. You can avoid that premium by booking a next day slot if the door is down but your car is not trapped.
4. Trip, disposal, tune up.
Some companies bundle a safety tune up and lubrication. Others itemize a trip charge. I am fine with either, as long as the final number makes sense for the value.
Example invoice scenarios, to make it real
Standard single car steel door with one torsion spring, no extras.
Part mid range, labor one hour plus tune up, total lands near the familiar 250 to 350 dollars band.
Double wide insulated door with two torsion springs, replace as a matched pair.
Two springs, same labor window, slight time add for balancing, total near 450 to 650 dollars.
Extension spring system on a light single door.
Lower part cost, straightforward setup, total near 180 to 275 dollars, depending on region.
High cycle upgrade for a frequently used door.
Premium spring hardware, same labor, total near 320 to 520 dollars, but you buy longevity.
None of these are promises, only patterns. I have seen a simple job come in lower, and a rust bound center cone push things higher. Snow melt, road salt, all the small Canadian realities, do not forget them.
What a professional actually does on site, step by step
I find this part calming, because when you know the process, the price feels fair.
Verify symptoms. The tech disconnects the opener, tries a manual lift, and confirms the break. Sometimes the spring is visibly split. Other times the door is simply wildly heavy.
Secure and isolate. Door is clamped, track stops go in, and the shaft is locked before set screws are touched. This is the safety critical moment.
Remove the broken spring and inspect hardware. Drums, cables, bearings, end plates, center bearing, all get a look. If a cable has strands broken, it is marked for replacement.
Measure and select the correct spring. Wire size, inside diameter, and length are chosen to match the door weight and lift setup. A pro will often weigh the door if anything is in doubt. This avoids the under wound, over stressed situation that shortens life.
Install, wind, and balance. Winding bars only, quarter turns counted, set screws set properly. Then the balance check, the door should rest mid travel without drifting up or slamming down. If balance is off, the spring is fine tuned.
Test with the opener and set safety features. Force settings are verified, photo eyes are checked, and travel limits are tweaked. A tiny adjustment here saves an opener later.
Lubricate and clean up. Hinges, rollers, and the new spring get a proper lubricant, not grease that collects grit. Everything gets wiped down.
If you enjoy DIY projects, you probably noticed a few tempting steps. I get it. Still, the combination of torque, pinch points, and the need for correct sizing keeps this in the pro column for me.
Cycle ratings, warranties, and the long view
A spring is rated for cycles, one open and one close together. Many builders install springs in the 10,000 cycle range, which is often fine for modest use. If you open the door eight times a day, you will burn through that in about three and a half years. A 20,000 to 30,000 cycle spring doubles or triples that, which keeps you off the service calendar for longer.
Warranties vary. Common patterns include one year labor, three to five years on parts, sometimes longer on high cycle springs. My preference is to ask for the cycle rating and the part warranty in writing. Then compare the price difference as a cost per year or cost per cycle. The higher cycle spring often wins on value, even if the sticker price is a bit higher.
Regional notes, Canada and the United States
In Canada, particularly in the GTA, Ottawa, Toronto and Vaughan, currency and market factors tilt the numbers slightly upward compared to some U.S. averages. Winter conditions can accelerate wear on cables and bearings. Homes with attached garages that open directly to salted driveways will see more corrosion near bottom fixtures. Technicians here tend to recommend cable replacement more often during a spring job, which is logical. In the United States, mild climates see fewer corrosion related add ons, although dust and heat have their own quirks. Either way, the core price logic holds. Spring type, door weight, and the number of springs move the total the most.
If you are looking for help today, start with Fix One garage door repair. If the opener is straining or grinding, hop to Garage door opener repair. If you also need new panels or want a quieter insulated door, see Garage door installation and replacement. For a quick area check, try the Garage door repair Toronto page. These links help navigate, and yes, they reinforce topical authority for internal SEO.
DIY vs professional, the honest tradeoffs
I will say it plainly. Extension spring work is less technical, yet still risky. Torsion spring work involves high torque and precision. The cost savings might look tempting. The potential injury is not. Also, many DIY attempts end with a pro visit to correct under winding or the wrong wire size. If you do insist on DIY, at least do the safe parts. Inspect rollers and hinges, tidy the tracks, lubricate moving points with a proper garage door lube, and test photo eyes. Save the winding for a technician.
If your door uses two torsion springs and one breaks, replacing both is practical. Springs age together. A fresh spring paired with a tired spring can throw off balance, which stresses the opener. The incremental part cost is often small compared to the return visit.
How to get an accurate quote in minutes
Measure and note the basics. Door width and height, material, and whether it is insulated. If you can, read the label on the existing spring for inside diameter and wire size. Do not guess. Send a photo.
Describe the symptoms. Did the spring snap audibly. Is the cable off the drum. Does the door sag on one side. These clues speed up diagnosis and pricing.
Ask for cycle rating and warranty details. Then decide if a high cycle upgrade fits your use. If you run a home gym in the garage and open it constantly, it probably does.
Choose timing wisely. If your car is trapped, ask for an emergency window. If not urgent, book a standard slot and skip the premium.
If you are in Southern Ontario, you can start a request at Fix One garage door services, attach a couple of photos, and mention your preferred time window. I think the clarity helps both sides.
Quick troubleshooting, things to check before you call
Sometimes a door that feels broken is only unbalanced or obstructed. I will not promise miracles, yet these checks can save time.
Look for a visible spring break.
A torsion spring usually snaps into two pieces. You will see a gap in the coil above the door. If you see that, stop using the opener. The opener is not a lift device, it is a guide. Lifting a dead weight door can strip gears.
Check the cables at the bottom brackets.
If a cable has come off the drum, the door may be crooked or jammed. Do not pull the cable. Photograph the drum and the cable path. Send that with your quote request.
Pull the emergency release and try a manual lift.
If the door floats halfway, the spring may be intact but out of balance. If it is very heavy, the spring is likely broken or the wrong size. Either way, do not force it.
Inspect photo eye alignment.
If the door goes down a few inches and reverses, the opener might be fine, and the spring might be fine, too. Clean the lenses and check for debris. This does not fix a broken spring, it does eliminate one common false alarm.
Listen for grinding.
Grinding or squealing around the shaft area can point to a seized center bearing or dry end bearings. These issues often present during a spring failure visit, which is why pros check and sometimes recommend small add ons.
Homeowner checklist, how to prepare for a spring replacement visit
I like checklists. They calm the chaotic energy of a broken door when you also need to get to work.
Clear the area around the door, give the technician at least four feet of unobstructed space inside the garage.
Move vehicles out if possible, or park on the street. If the car is trapped, tell the dispatcher so the tech brings additional blocking tools.
Photograph the broken spring, the cable drums, and the label on the existing spring if visible. Measurements help, but photos are fine.
Note door size, seven foot or eight foot, material, insulated or not.
Write down symptoms, loud snap sound, door stuck halfway, opener straining, cable off drum.
Decide in advance if you want a high cycle spring upgrade. If you open and close more than eight times a day, I think it is worth considering.
Ask about warranties, cycle rating, and whether the quote includes a safety tune up and lubrication.
FAQ
Can I replace just one torsion spring on a two spring system
Technically, yes. Practically, I recommend replacing both. Springs age together. A fresh spring paired with a tired spring can cause uneven lift and shorten the life of your opener. The incremental cost is usually worth it.
What is the difference between a 10,000 cycle spring and a 30,000 cycle spring
Cycle rating is simply lifespan math. If you cycle eight times a day, a 10,000 cycle spring lasts about three and a half years. A 30,000 cycle spring could last three times that, all else equal. Weather, lubrication, and balance still matter.
Will a new spring make my door quieter
Sometimes, yes. A properly balanced torsion spring reduces strain on rollers and tracks, which can reduce noise. If most of your noise is from worn rollers or loose hinges, you may want to upgrade those during the same visit.
Can I keep using the opener with a broken spring
No. The opener is not designed to lift a dead weight door. You risk burning the motor or stripping gears. Worse, you risk a slammed door and injury.
Is it worth converting from extension to torsion
On a heavier or frequently used door, I think so. Torsion is smoother, and many homeowners notice the difference immediately. On a light single door that works fine, extension is acceptable, particularly if budget is tight.
Do I need regular maintenance after a spring replacement
Yes, although it is simple. Lubricate hinges, rollers, and the spring a few times a year, and test the door balance. A quick visual check of cables and the bottom brackets is smart, especially in winter climates.
Conclusions
Replacing a garage door spring will cost most households somewhere between 200 and 620 dollars. The middle is common, 250 to 350 dollars for a single torsion spring including labor. The final number depends on spring type, door weight, the number of springs, and local labor. A professional visit is the safe choice, and in my opinion, the better value because the sizing and balancing are done right. If you want fewer surprises later, consider a high cycle spring and a quick cable inspection during the same visit. It is not glamorous, but it is the kind of quiet upgrade that just works.
If you need help now, book with Fix One garage door repair, or start on the Garage door services page and choose the option that fits.
